Tuesday, May 27, 2014

How To Care For Wooden Cutting Boards & Utensils


My wooden spoons and utensils are my favorite go to items when I'm cooking and baking. I have gone through dozens of them over the years. Not only are they handy in the kitchen, they instill heart stopping fear when whacked against a door frame followed by your "angry" voice. (I've broken more spoons that way.)

Lately they have been looking a bit worse for wear, so I thought that I should look into ways to keep them at their best. Also, my Father-in-law made me a beautiful hickory wood cutting board for my birthday this year. I wanted to know what the best way for finishing it so that it lasts for a good long time.

First we will discuss the properties of wood. Trees have natural antibacterial properties. When wood is cut from them, the tree doesn't cease to retain these properties. Your wooden spoons and boards still contain their antibacterial structure. Several years ago, plastics manufacturers convinced everyone who would listen that plastic was much cleaner and safer to use. Not True! Plastic not only contains harmful toxins but actually harbors bacteria in all the cracks and crevices. Wood is better!

Now, I season my cast iron with lard but I knew that probably wouldn't be appropriate for wood. Surprisingly though, some people do this. They also use olive oil and various vegetable oils as well. Overstock.com even recommends it for the wooden cookware that they sell. Lard & other animal fats, olive oil & vegetable oils go rancid and become sticky after time though. So I didn't want to use those.

I found that the main thing that people are using now is food grade mineral oil. It is touted to be a food safe & natural product. So, off I went to buy some. It was very inexpensive at the pharmacy, but I started reading the label before I bought it. I'm glad that I did. Although it is approved for human consumption, it is a petroleum based product. As I began reading the warning label regarding children, pregnant women and such, I decided that I wasn't comfortable cooking my families food with utensils coated in mineral oil. Back to the beginning!

Next line of research was searching for what woodworkers actually use when they create these things. Although most of them use the mineral oil, I did find a couple that use an alternative... Walnut Oil (affiliate link). Eureka! I had finally found my natural preservative for my wood ware.

Walnut oil is made from English walnuts (sometimes called Persian walnuts). It is made mostly in England, France, Australia & New Zealand but also in California. What makes it idea is because it dries quickly, doesn't yellow, it is edible & resists oxidation and rancidity. It also hardens over time. It is not terribly common though, so it is a little harder to find. It sounded perfect though!

After reading up on the different ways to use walnut oil, I decided to do a two step application. First step will be oil alone & the second step will be an oil/beeswax mix. I'm getting ahead of myself though. First you need to get your wood prepped.

The items that you will need to rejuvenate all of your wooden spoons/utensils & cutting boards are...
      * Fine sand paper (I used 220 grit)
      * Clean rags (preferably cotton)
      * 100% Walnut Oil
      * Organic Beeswax (affiliate link)
      * Double Boiler pan (I used a pot and a mason jar)
      * Form for wax (canning lids is what I used) optional
 
If any of your wooden items are cracked, don't use them for cooking. If you want to display them decoratively that's fine. Discard them if not. Sand down any rough edges or anywhere the wood grain has raised. Get any fuzzy spots too. If your cutting board has deep cuts in it you will want to sand down the surface as well. Make sure that you go with the grain when sanding. You want it to be nice and smooth. I sanded all my utensils and my cutting board. Wipe down everything down after you are done with a dry cloth.
 

Next, I applied a liberal coat of walnut oil to everything. The spoons that I have had for a long time, I only needed one coat. I put three coats of oil on the cutting board because it is new and has never been treated. Allow 24hrs between coats to let the oil soak in. Go with the grain in this step too. You want to get to the point where the wood won't absorb any more oil. Wipe it down with a dry cloth to clean off any excess. The oil has a nutty smell that I really like.


After applying the oil, if you have new wood that you are treating for the first time, you may have spots where the wood has swelled and feels fuzzy again. Just lightly re-sand and wipe down those areas. If it appears dry afterwards, you can apply more oil.

Next, I made my oil/wax. I decided on one part walnut oil (1/3 cup) and two parts beeswax (2/3 cup). I knew that I wouldn't need that much for this project but I won't have to make it again next time I want to re-season or if I buy anything new that needs an initial treatment.

I used a pot with a vegetable steamer pan and a mason jar to melt everything together. Initially, I melted the wax and then added the oil but, oops, the wax hardened back up due to the cooler temperature of the oil. So, just add them together and stir until melted and blended. I used a wooden skewer stick to stir.



After it is done, I poured the wax into canning lids. I put them on waxed paper just in case any liquid seeped through. Let them cool and set up. You could just let it harden in the jar but I found that it is easier to apply the wax by rubbing it directly on the wood.




Now that I had my was pucks, I simply rubbed the wax directly on the wood. I snapped them in half to make application easier. The warmth of your hands and the friction of the wood make it easy to really get a good thick coat on. Don't worry about going with the grain on this step. Just work it into the wood well. If you end up with a bunch of little broken pieces that is ok. You can always re-melt it.




 The final step is to buff the wax. I used a new chamois cloth for this. If you have ever waxed wood floors or your car, it is just like that. Rub until the surface is smooth. Beeswax is not a high gloss wax but it will have a nice sheen.



That is all there is to it. I know that it is a lot of steps and takes a few days if you have to add multiple oil coats but it is well worth the time and effort. With proper care and maintenance, your wood will last a lifetime.


To insure that your wooden kitchen wares are at their best, here are a few tips.

      * Never put wood in the dishwasher. It will dry out and crack.
      * Don't let your spoons "soak".
      * Wash in warm soapy water by hand to clean.
      * Periodically inspect for cracks or damage. Re-treat as needed.

***A WORD OF CAUTION***

If you, a family member or someone that you cook for has nut allergies, you may not want to use Walnut Oil! I do not know if they would have a reaction, but I would err on the side of caution and not use it. There is  Cutting Board Oil(affiliate link) available.

Tina:)

Monday, May 5, 2014

How to Make a Goat Milking Stand / Stanchion



Who needs a milking stand? Todays Make it Monday project is a DIY for the homesteader. I built this stand today with materials that I had on hand around our place. Honestly this didn't cost me a dime today! Almost everything is from FREE materials. Gotta love that!

Now, I know that I don't have a milking goat yet... I believe in being prepared though. This last week I started building our goat barn. With help from my daughter Janie and son Eric Jr., we erected the walls. I still have a lot to do on it though. Frame the entrance, reinforce with some 4x4s, put a roof on it and install stalls. It is defiantly a work in progress. Here's a photo of how it looks so far. I'll post more as it progresses.

Today however, I decided to build my milking stand. You can use it for more than just milking though. Anything that you would need to keep your goat still for (hoof cleaning & trimming, shaving, vaccinating) can be done on this stand. Since I plan on purchasing a doe in milk, this is something that I would need to have in advance. Now I do.

Tools that I used for this project were:
     *Chop Saw
     *Circular Saw
     *Drill
     *Hammer
     *Tape Measure
     *Pencil

The stand was made using the following materials that I had.
     *40x40 pallet
     *scrap plywood
     *scrap 2x6s
     *scrap 2x4s
     *scrap 1x4s
     *roofing nails
     *assorted screws
     *carriage bolt & nut
     *washers
     *latch hook     

As I said, all of these materials were free. The only things which I paid for (so long ago that I couldn't even tell you how much they cost) were the latch, screws and plywood. The pallet and other wood scraps were here on the property when we moved here. Score!


I snapped a chalk line and cut the pallet at 28" for the base. This pallet has two middle supports so I didn't have to alter anything to make the platform sturdy.


Both Sides cut. Platform is 40x28.


Next, I cut four 17 1/2" long legs out of 2x6 lumber. That makes the height of the platform about 18" high.  


After attaching the legs to the sides, I made 2x4 braces for both sets of legs and one across one end of the pallet.


The head brace is made with two 4 1/2' 2x6s and three 27 1/2" 2x6 pieces.


Here is how the framing for the head brace looks assembled.


Cut the 1x4 into two pieces, one 41 1/2" long and the other 47 1/2" long. Find the center of the brace and measure 2" on either side. That leaves a 4" opening for the goats neck. Attach the shorter piece with screws. Use the bolts, washers and nut to attach the bottom of brace after drilling  through both brace and 1x4 piece. This side will adjust to let the goats head through and then lock it in place for milking.


Add a hook at the top of the long 1x4 to lock it in place.


 
I cut a piece of plywood to cover the pallet and screwed it down for a smoother surface. It may not be very pretty but it is very sturdy and I believe that it will last a long time. All it needs now is a coat of paint and it will be ready to use.

One thing that I did not build yet is the holder for the feeder. I want to buy one first before I do so that I can decide the dimensions.

Not bad for an afternoons work. Pretty proud of myself! Hope this gives you some ideas for your own stand.

Now I just need a goat!

Have a great Monday,
Tina:)